Tim Blanks is never the type who’d sound really bitchy in his reviews for Men.style.com. So when I read several of his notes for New York Fashion Week, I was a little taken aback about how he’s serving up a bit of a bitch fit to at least 1 label: DKNY.
Here are several snippets from his men.style.com post:
“DKNY’s 20th anniversary should ideally offer a prime opportunity to reflect on the evolution of men's style in the city the label celebrates, but it's actually been a pretty random journey.”
“Back in the day...much more sophisticated than the callow youngsters who wore the clothes on today's catwalk.”
“Donna herself was talking about turning young guys onto ties and a slightly more formal approach to dressing, but these DKNY men seem to have relapsed—they were virtually tieless and resolutely low-key.”
“Casual and easy, it was actually the way most men might care to dress in their downtime, which has always been the canny core of DKNY's menswear. After 20 years, not much has changed.”
Ms. Karan, who celebrates 20 years in the industry this season (I think?) brought out a collection of very relaxed, un-stuffy menswear. Not a bad thing per se, but isn’t it weird that for something as momentous as this, you give your most loyal fashion audience, clothes that didn’t seem like it took much effort in designing and producing?
Granted, she may have just paid homage to the silhouette and the attitude that has defined the DKNY man for the past 2 decades, but for me, there’s a difference between re-updating what has been a signature and just rehashing them. Unfortunately, from what I saw in Ms. Karan’s runway this morning, it’s the latter, and that’s a sad proposition to be in.
Look, it may be contested still up to now, but I think Tom Ford’s final collection for Gucci last Fall 2004 set the bar on how you look into the past, pay its due respects, and forge the way to a bright future. Until the end of his illustrious career at Gucci, he was in every way, a designer and a showman.
(For those who don’t closely follow fashion, Mr. Ford was hired to resurrect the then-ailing luxury brand. Some many years later, Gucci is on top of everyone’s mind when it comes to forward-thinking clothes, curiously controversial advertising campaigns, and well, the living proof that sex indeed sells. He parted ways with the Gucci group after disagreements.)
His finale collection could have been just what we saw at DKNY this season: Archives thrown on the runway for models to wear—and for the editors seated to relish and enjoy. But he didn’t just rest on the fantastic tailoring and styling that he’s known for, he celebrated everything that the Gucci label meant to him: Sexy sophisticated clothing, with a playboy-sharp point of view. That’s what he gave to the people who witnessed the end of an era at Gucci, and it left everyone with a smile on their faces and awe at how well Mr. Ford knows his shit.
Back to DKNY. While it is great to sit back, relax, and savor the many years that DKNY has been a part of the New York mindset, isn’t it also great to offer a look of things to come? Maybe instead of the normal sneakers worn with a suit look that she favored so much, an awesome shirt of quirky detailing (designers for fall, for instance, embellished their shirts with Tuxedo details) or a fantastic wingtip would have made for a stronger impact—and a terrific preview of the next 20 years of DKNY.
Unfortunately, the show stopped at the past.
Curiously, Banana Republic did a better job at celebrating its 30 years in the business. The classic khaki trench coat was re-issued in a slimmer proportion; cotton chinos fit slimmer in the leg; and three-piece suits are made with lightweight wool instead of the heavy ones that could overwhelm a lithe guy.
[Photographs are courtesy of men.style.com]
Easy, breezy summer style for guys. I would even argue that two layers (even though one of them is a tank) is a bit much for 85-degree days. But that's just me.
His aura is very cool—and he makes a very good point about mixing dressier elements (formal watch, tux jacket) with those that are casual (T-shirt, jeans, and belt).
Tux-style jacket (on sale at $120) from Topman.
Now that the weather has slowly begun to warm (well, by 5 or so degrees...), expect more precipitation than snow in the coming weeks—making the months of February and March the perfect time to don a cool trench coat.
It might not make sense at first, but the first fashion rule applies here: Invest in classics you’ll wear forever. You can definitely spend on trendier pieces from designers, but how long will you be able to enjoy them? Two, 3 months the most? Not much mileage there, right?
Believe me, you might think it’s too small but more often than not, you’ll realize that it’s your true size. (If a size down is too tight then no worries, at least you tried.)
Sizing across designers and brands are never consistent. I’ll use myself as example: I’m S or XS at Gap and Old Navy, but I’m a medium in Zara and Topman. Regardless, #2 rule still applies—I thought I was an M at Old Navy, but found that size too baggy.
Black shoes and black belt (and black watch if you have one); brown shoes and brown belt (match the hue as closely as possible). When you’re wearing sneakers, or any other hue, feel free to relax—even break—this rule.
They wanna see a nice outline of our asses, guys.
Shave it, pluck it, wax it, laser it, thread it, do everything you can to get rid of it. Whenever I have it professionally done, I decline when they ask me if I want the rest of my brows fixed as well, because they always mess up. No unibrow: Good. Girly arched brows? No, thanks.
And there’s the added bonus of broadening your shoulders—a study shows that women look at a man’s shoulders to perceive how “strong” and in-control they are. So wouldn’t you want it?
Rounded, slightly elongated toe: Now you’re getting the idea.
I know I may be asking for too much—adding an extra hour or 2 to your trip to the mall, but really, having access to many brand names and designers taught me one thing: There’s always one that will completely impress one guy, but will disappoint the other. Once you find a clothesmaker that churns out things you always like, show some love—but don’t be exclusive, because there’s another one that will impress you equally.
Throw. Them. Out. I guarantee you’ll find a replacement for them in your next shopping trip.
This winter, try one of these subtly-patterned trousers instead of your solid- or pinstriped ones. The wool gives it comfort, and the subdued criss-cross checks will not overwhelm a vertically-challenged guy. Wear the trousers with a solid white shirt, black tie, and a purple cashmere cardigan, and you're all set for the Holiday parties.
C'mon. There's absolutely no way I wouldn't include Justin Timberlake in my list. Since venturing to a solo career outside of 'N Sync, Mr. Timberlake has graduated from the cliché boyband style of dress and really has upped the style factor.
Leather jacket ($220) from Topman.
Milo at the Burberry reopening in Beverly Hills. He's most known playing the role of Peter in television's Heroes.
Cardigan ($50) from Topman.
